Ken and Anja's Thailand Trip

Picasa Albums - Northern & Southern Thailand

2007-02-27T10:00:00.001-08:00

Northern Thailand 2007

Southern Thailand 2007

Back to La La Land 2/5/07 - PLEASE COMMENT

2007-02-05T06:22:00.000-08:00

If you followed our blog while we were over there PLEASE POST A COMMENT ON THIS ENTRY.

We are home back in LA and trying to readjust our sleep schedules. We plan to try to round out the blog and post more pictures of the days we were not able to access the pictures for in Thailand. Be sure to check the out the pictures from the Grand Palace day in Bangkok.

We've estimated that the 29-day trip cost about $5,000 for the two of us combined.

Flights $2200
Lodging $650
Tours $500
Climbing Transportation $150
Food $800
Beverages $100
Purchases $600

If you followed our blog while we were over there PLEASE POST A COMMENT ON THIS ENTRY. We'd love to see what family, friends, co-workers, and even strangers followed along on our blog. We had an amazing time and we had originally only started the blog to keep Ken's grandma and mom and Anja's dad updated but it was great to come back and hear how our friends enjoyed living vicariously through our blog. So please post a comment because we'd like you all to be a part of our trip blog.

For note we are thinking of returning next year (March maybe?) for a two week trip to Tonsai. Anyone interested would be welcome to join us to climb or just relax on the beach.

Cheers!
Ken and Anja

Chatuchak Market and Flight Home

2007-02-04T06:16:00.000-08:00

Our last day was crazy long. We got up at 5 pm LA time (8 am Bangkok time) and shopped at the Bangkok Chatuchak Market.

Anja was on the hunt for beads. Thus far she had struck out finding any cheap real stone beads. We looked in Chiang Mai but all the prices were close to the states. The guy at Railey who taught her a necklace pattern said this was the spot. Anja spent close to $100 on beads, but the prices were about 50% less than eBay.

The market was not as touristy as the Night Bazaar in Chiang Mai, but we did see the Thailand Tourist Police there. We asked an officer if we could take a picture, and she said sure. Then she said the young guys behind her were on a class trip to the market, and she asked if they could take a picture with us.

At 2 am LA time (5 pm Bangkok time) we boarded the plane for the first leg of our trip home. Luckily the return trip was a bit faster with a 3.5 hour flight and a 12 hr flight (instead of 3.5 and 16.5). Our flight back went smoothly except that Ken suffered a bit of food poisoning. We landed at 6 pm and Paul Lopez picked us up from the airport. After a visit to In n Out we got home at 9 pm.

Last day of climbing

2007-02-03T06:07:00.000-08:00

Our last day at Tonsai we climbed the ultra classic Groove Tube 6a.

The guidebook said the second pitch was good but rarely done due to the extremely popular first pitch. Anja was all over this because she was starting to love the views that multipitch climbs offered.

Given how polished the second pitch was it apparently got some traffic. Below you can see an old restaurant which was probably wrecked by the Tsunami.

After climbing we flew back to Bangkok and met up with Rosa and Deborah at the Tiger Bar around the corner from Suda Palace.

Humanality 2/2/07

2007-02-02T06:15:00.000-08:00

After our rest day we got on a Tonsai classic 5 pitch climb called Humanality. It climbs right above the Freedom Bar on the beach, so it puts on a good show. The classic pitch is pitch 4 (6b+). As you climb up large holds on a steep face they suddenly disappear except for two large holds about 10 feet out of reach. As you look around for what to do next you realize a large stalactite is just within reach behind you. When you lean out to reach it you are left staring 300 ft down into the bar!

You do a few delicate and spooky moves and find yourself comfortably on the stalactite but then you have to move back on the face so you move up and around on the stalactite and reach back out for those large holds which were formerly 10 feet away. After that you have another great pitch of 6b and then rappel down straight into the bar.

In a classic Tonsai style my friend Rudy arrived while we were on the climb. I knew he was coming to Tonsai but not exactly what day and he knew we were in Dream Valley 405 but that was it. He arrived, got a room, left a note for us at Dream Valley and headed to the Freedom Bar with some people he had meet on the way to Tonsai. They had just been asking him "How are you going to find your friend?" "This place can't be that big, I'm sure I'll come across them" "Hey I think I know that guy rappelling into the bar!"

Before we called it a day Anja jumped on the classic 6c Vikings in Heat. A steep pumpy climb which she struggled through but managed to onsite.

Ao Nang Restday 1/2/2550

2007-02-01T21:17:00.000-08:00

We are taking a rest day and saw Deborah and Rosa off to the airport riding the longtail with them over to Ao Nang. We stopped by the Elephant pool. Later we plan to crash the pool bar at a local resort.

A cat with a tip jar in an Ao Nang convinence store. The woman explained that the she-cat was expecting. Though from the scrawny cats we've seen, 1B would go a long way!

Then Deborah climbed a coconut tree and picked some coconuts (don't know if this is legal?) egged on by a thai lady sitting nearby. She seemed more excited than we were, and after watching our feeble attempts at opening them, the woman sent a man for a knife. She deftly hacked away to harvest the coconutty goodness. Love the look the lady is giving Deborah.

Phi Phi Don Climbing Day

2007-01-31T06:34:00.000-08:00

We climbed on Phi Phi Don today on "Phi Phi Don's" Tonsai Wall

Phi Phi Don

The climb was great! 300+ feet of fun climbing with glue-in bolts. The grade seemed a little soft compared with back at Tonsai and Railey but the views were amazing.

At 3:30 we caught the ferry back to Railey which dropped us on a longtail boat for a ride back to Tonsai.

Thaiwand wall in the background

Ko Phi Phi Don and Ko Phi Phi Lei 30/1/2550

2007-01-30T06:24:00.000-08:00

We took a 1.5 hour ferry ride to Ko Phi Phi Don for 370 Baht ($10) each. We found a room for 800 baht and setup a snorkel trip to Phi Phi Lei. Most people tour in groups for about 500-1000B, but we enjoyed the 1500B splurge on a private longtail boat. It was great seeing beaches and lagoons on the Phi Phi islands and our chauffeur provided a free extra hour.

Our first snorkling location had a lot of wave but better coral than the second spot.

We snorkeled at the beach where the movie "The Beach" was filmed. It was a really amazing spot and the cliffs of Phi Phi Lei are incredible!

The last stop was "Monkey Beach". There was a loud shrieking noise as we approached, and our driver said "monkey, monkey!!". "Really? That awful noise is a monkey?" I asked. As we got closer, we realized it was actually the sound of a young adolescent boy being chased by a monkey. I thought that was pretty funny -- until they chased after me! :)

The monkey's like to hangout with you as long as you don't mind sharing your food.

Wee's Present Wall

2007-01-29T21:28:00.000-08:00

We went climbing on Wee's Present wall. Fun climbs we did 3-6a, 1-6a+, and 2-6b. Rosa also climbed for the first time ever and enjoyed it enough to do all three 6a climbs.

It must be a "present" wall because as we were leaving in the dark Anja found a necklace in the dirt. Only a couple of stones were sticking out of the dirt but she saw it and pulled out and really long necklace.

Deep Water Soloing

2007-01-28T20:59:00.000-08:00

We went deep water soloing on a tour from Wee's climbing shop. It was really fun because the group was really chill. We had 16 people on an extra large longtail and a kayak for getting on climbs.

The first spot we went was a little too hard and no one could get on the good problems but the boulder was fun to play on.

Then we went to Ko Poda island and climbed at spot the Paladium.

It was really cool with a good traverse and short problems and one really long roof route a guy in the group finished with a 55 ft drop at the end into the ocean.

Tonsai climbing

2007-01-27T03:48:00.000-08:00

We've been climbing on Tonsai and Railey for over a week now it has been great. We've climbed at the Nest, Diamond Cave, 1-2-3 wall, Mauy Thai Wall, Thaiwand Wall, Escher World, Tyroleen Wall, Tonsai Wall, Phra-Nang Beach, and Defile Wall.

Thaiwand wall was our favorite by far with the views of the bay were amazing. We started the day on Escher Wall which is kind of the south face of Thaiwand Wall. After we finished at Escher we found our way into a large cave as we scrambled up the cave we found a few ladders and climbed up into the cave more now needing headlamp. Next thing we knew we saw light and popped out 70 feet up the side of the face of Thaiwand Wall. One rap later we were on the ground and blasting off on lead for the first pitch of Lord of the Thais. (pictures later)

Ao Nang 24/1/2550

2007-01-24T01:07:00.001-08:00

Today we went with Ram, Deborah, and Rosa to Ao Nang to see them off. It is sad to see Ram go, but we are already discussing Thailand plans for next year! Deborah and Rosa are visiting a nearby party island, and will return on Sunday night.

We have a little over a week left, and are considering a trip to Ko Phi Phi, deep water soloing, renting a kayak to access island climbing areas, and possibly the James Bond island/cave tour. Unfortunately, internet is about 6 times more expensive on Tonsai than it was in Chiang Mai, so this post (from Ao Nang) might be the last for a few days.

Climbing 23 January 2550 - Phra Nang Bay

2007-01-23T01:07:00.000-08:00

The 23rd was Ram's last day of climbing in Thailand, and he got on some good, hard, routes. Phra Nang bay in particular was a beautiful spot. There were a few tourists, but no line for climbs, and an interesting change from the climber beach.

Ram leading a 7c

Anja on a 6c

We also climbed nearby "Money Maker" story is someone used to keep a rope set on it and charge for belays to the tourists and Ken lead a 6a+ on the right of Defile Wall. We had dinner at a Thai-Indian restaurant in Railey East, and then the five of us walked the 30-40 minutes back to Tonsai in the dark sharing a headlamp (Ken's of course :). It was a bit tricky navigating the sharp coral and rocks, but the beach walk seemed safer than the jungle path at night which could introduce some dangerous critters (snakes, scorpions, and monkeys).

Climbing and Coconuts

2007-01-22T01:02:00.000-08:00

Sunday-Tuesday (23/1) we spent climbing/exploring the various crags in and around Tonsai.

Ram leading on Tidalwave with the Freedom Bar of Tonsai beach in the background.

Anja enjoying her favorite Thai food Coconuts.

Tonsai, Railey 20-23/1/2550

2007-01-20T00:37:00.000-08:00

We met up with Ram and Deborah on Saturday (20/1) at the Krabi airport. They were there to pick up their friend Rosa, who coincidentally was on our flight! We took taxis to Ao Nang, which is the port city where we could catch a short (30 min or so) longtail boat ride to Tonsai (50B).

The Tonsai/Railey area is even more amazing than the photos, and the Tonsai area in particular is well adapted to the climber lifestyle. Cheap restaurants and (somewhat cheap) bars line the beach and present spectacular views of the limestone cliffs, climbers, and Tonsai bay. A short walk from Tonsai is Railey west, the classier resort/tourist area, with several swimming pool options to cool off in the afternoon heat.

The 21st-23rd we spent climbing/exploring the various crags in and around Tonsai. Phra Nang bay in particular was a beautiful spot. There were a few tourists, but no line for climbs, and an interesting change from the climber beach.

Ram taught me a few key phrases to know in thai, such as "I'd like a big, fat coconut please".

Crazy Horse Day 3

2007-01-19T07:20:00.000-08:00

On the way to the crag we stopped off at a nearby Buddist Cave.

Then we hit the crag and we got on some steep climbs

Cave Lodge

2007-01-18T06:47:00.000-08:00

Getting to the Cave Lodge felt a little crazy; renting a car, driving in Thailand, a drive which was described as so dangerous you get a certificate if you make it without incident, and 4 hours of driving at that. Well, it was easy renting the car, the drive was awesome no worse than driving to Yosemite and the trip was well worth it.

We stayed at the Cave Lodge for 3 nights. It overlooked the Nam Lang River and was conveniently less than a kilometer from the entrance to Tham Lod.

It has been the highlight of our accommodations so far. The bungalow we rented was 200 baht a night.

Plus the gathering area alone was almost worth the trip. It felt like camp, only tropical island style, with a large fire on the main deck, hammock, swing and restaurant bar, sheltered by a thatch roof. At night we had a fire in the center deck, nothing like lighting a match in a tinder box. Cold showers and internet isolation seemed like a small price to pay. :)

Cave Lodge Day 2

2007-01-17T06:59:00.000-08:00

We got a tour with a guide named Wat from the Cave Lodge and were joined by Papken who we met the night before. This tour started with a Jungle Trek:

included visiting Fossil Cave:

Waterfall Cave which (after crawling for about 10 feet) we discovered was blocked by a log jam

Coffin Cave and Christmans Cave.

Caves near Soppong (Northern Thailand) 16/1/2550

2007-01-16T06:40:00.000-08:00

Tham Lod was the largest cave that we toured, and it was also one of the most popular caves to tour in Thailand (costing 450B/person). This cave is also unique in that the Lang river flows through it (it's also referred to as "Tham Naam Lod", where naam = water), and it is toured via bamboo rafts. The rafts stop for tourists to walk through three major chambers branching from the main tunnel.

Tham ("Cave") Long Yaow, guided by K.T. from the Karen tribe.

Market & Cooking Class 15/1/2550

2007-01-15T06:36:00.000-08:00

2nd day Climbing at Crazy Horse 14/1/2550

2007-01-14T05:38:00.000-08:00

We hired the same driver and climbed some steep climbs in the archway and aircon areas.

Ken is cleaning Anja's favorite climb at Crazy Horse.

Elephant Ride & Doi Inthanon National Park 13/1/2550

2007-01-13T20:21:00.000-08:00

Since we had such an enjoyable experience with a hired driver, we had another driver take us to ride an elephant and tour Doi Inthanon. The elphant ride was fairly expensive (600B) but well worth it.

The summit of Doi Inthanon is the highest point in Thailand, and consists of several beautiful waterfalls (Nam Tok Mae Klang was our favorite).

Equally impressive was the Phras built by the Royal Thai Air Force to commemorate the King and Queen's 60th birthdays.

We stayed a second night in the Chiang Mei Holiday guest house (200B/night) because we were too tired to find a new place. Because lodging is cheap and you often get what you pay for, we recommend the mid-range guest houses. It's worth an extra $5/night for a cockroach and mildew free room.

Ram's Elephants 11/1/2550-12/1/2550

2007-01-12T20:20:00.000-08:00

We arrived in Chiang Mei before dark and booked rooms at Galare Guesthouse (Rams = 500 B, ours = 1,150 B). It was a nice place with a restaurant overlooking the river and a 5 minute walk to Chiang Mei's daily night bazaar. We got food at a cute restaurant with amazing cocktails and then headed to the night bazaar in search of Ram's wood-carved elphants.

The night bazaar was crazy -- teeming with vendors hawking various handmade shirts, jewelry, trinkets and thai dishes. This bazaar seems to be the major draw for tourists to Chiang Mei, evidently even Thai tourists :).

We walked for about an hour through the main outdoor market area with no luck. There were carved elephants, but none were of suitable size for Ram. We'd given up and were making our final purchases, when a guy told us about a bamboo saxophone shop that was in the warehouse section of the bazaar. We were excited at the news of indoor shops because that's where Ram remembered seeing the elephants. Following the guy's directions, Ram was able to acquire his prize.

We had to separate for the elephant purchase, so that Ram could fetch a better price (pretending to be local). Ken and I left the market shortly after, planning to meet up with Ram again in Krabi (he was taking an early flight the next day). At about 5:30 am there was a knock on our door.

Ram had bought two elephants (or rhinos?) and each was packed into an approximately 1.5 x 1.5 x 3 foot crate. Upon seeing this and realizing Ram was travelling alone, the front desk manager arranged a super-sketch 'taxi'. The cab was black and pretty beaten up, with no sign of being part of a taxi service. The driver was even more sketch because he wouldn't talk to Ram while he loaded Ram's stuff into the car. Fortunately, Ram came and got us, and when he asked the driver if Ken and I could ride with him to the airport the driver freaked. He said no, quickly unloaded Ram's stuff and split. Sketchy!! Ken flagged a red truck (great way to travel around Chiang Mei), and we rode with Ram to the airport. Ram was able to store the goods at the Bangkok airport for 100B/day, and made it safely to the dream valley resort in Krabi.

After that adventurous morning, we hired a private driver for the day (1,200B) to take us climbing. Crazy horse is amazing!!!

Climbing in Thailand is everything I'd imagined it to be -- super steep, interestingly-featured, over-bolted limestone!! I love this creative, strenuous climbing :)! Also, the driver fee includes a thai food lunch service, so we've also been enjoying the best crag food along with the best climbing.

Grand Palace & Reclining Buddha 10/1/2550

2007-01-10T21:22:00.000-08:00

Eric recommended that if we can only see one thing in Bangkok it should be the Grand Palace (the Big C is second? :). The post cards certainly didn't do justice here, there are just too many amazing sights to capture on camera. Admission to the grand palace is free for thais (many go once a week to pray to the Buddha) and 250 THB for foreigners. We also saw the nearby reclining Buddha, which was very impressive but difficult to photograph. We made the mistake (again) of taking a nap upon returning to the hotel, and slept 3 hrs.

At about 10pm we began what turned out to be a very difficult task of booking a flight to Chiang Mei. All flights on the airlines we knew of were booked (Asia Air and Thai Air). This is where the lonely planet guide came in very handy, by providing info on several additional airlines. We ended up finding cheap flights $53/person on Nok (nokair.com), and in the process of booking someone recommended one-two-go airlines (fly12go.com). He claims that you can pickup/purchase(?) tickets for this airline at 7-11's. Ram was wavering on heading to Railey (Krabi), but he decided to join us on the trip to Chiang Mei. Ram plans to stay only one evening in Chiang Mei to purchase a tek wood carved elephant from the night bizarre for about $700 US. Looking forward to this market and checking out Ram's elephant (that he's mentioned several times since his thailand trip last year).

After booking this flight, we headed to the Tiger bar for dinner and beer. Hard to believe you can get a full dinner and live music at 12:15 am! Bangkok would be a super cool place to live if it weren't for the pollution.

We leave in about 3 hrs for Chiang Mei (3:30 pm). Will miss the Tiger bar and Big C within walking distance.

New Hotel: Suda Palace 10/1/2550

2007-01-10T20:39:00.000-08:00

Jenny and Eric left on the 9th, and we moved over to their hotel, the Suda Palace (www.sudapalace.com), which was much more impressive and much cheaper than ours (Nice Palace). The Suda Palace offers rooms for only 700 THB ($20 US)/night that include A/C, a warm shower and free internet and breakfast. We highly recommend this Bangkok hotel because it is also within walking distance of the sky train, Big C, internet cafes, and a cool bar with outdoor seating and live bands (Tiger bar) is just around the corner.

The cheap and fun ways to travel around Bangkok are the sky train (15-40 THB) and canal boats (13 THB for express boat). Tuk tuks are ok because the fare is often negotiated before travel, but you're breathing in a lot of pollution. Renting a car is expensive and can be scary! Taxis are a pricey and inefficient way to travel. We have experienced/heard about the following problems with the taxi drivers: 1) you're taken to a high priced, lousy place that gives him comission, 2) he "doesn't know" your destination (and must drive around for awhile to find it), 3) he takes the long route, 4) "white man" tax. Even though our meter read 270 THB from the airport to the nice palace (20 min ride), we were charged 400 THB.

Jan. 9 Chinatown and Wat

2007-01-09T17:51:00.000-08:00

We met up with Ram, Jenny, and Eric in the morning. First we had to return their rental car, then we took the subway to Chinatown and walked around for a while, then took these cool boats up the river an visited a Wat next to the river Wat Arun I think.

Monday 1/8 in Bangkok

2007-01-08T17:27:00.000-08:00

Jenny says that the two greatest things in Bangkok are 7-11 and the Big C. Paul had told us that there were 7-11's on every corner, and indeed there were two within a block of our hotel.

The first thing we did was buy sim cards for our phones (200THB each = $6 US), and then called Ram, Jenny and Eric who were at a bird reserve about 100km from Bangkok. They had rented a car for the 2 weeks that they'd been in Bangkok and explored much of the parks, wats(temples) and ruins, travelling almost as far north as Chiang Mei and logging about 2,000 km of travel. Driving seems pretty crazy, especially around Bangkok, because you drive on the opposite side of the road, and there are pretty much no traffic rules...everything is ok until you get into a crash (in the event of a crash, the drivers pretty much split if they can, as many don't carry insurance). We might brave a car in Chiang Mei, but we'll see.

After talking with them we went for a walk and exchanged money in the bank. It was very busy because they are one of the only places to buy the thai lottery.

We met up with Jenny, Ram, and Eric at their hotel, which was adjacent to ours, at about 11pm. Our meeting was delayed about 1-2 hrs because of discovering the Big C. It is like a walmart and shopping mall combined, and we spent about $75 US there on clothes, shoes, and food. The most impressive sight from this day was the wall of oil at the Big C.

Long Plane Ride

2007-01-07T20:34:00.000-08:00

We boarded in Los Angeles at about 2 pm. The plane ride was long, almost 20 hours of travel. I watch about 6 movies and Anja read and made jewelry on the flight from LAX to Taipai. We sat next to a nice guy name Paul who was thai and also headed to Bangkok. We landed in Taipia at about 5 am with a 1.5 hour layover. When we boarded in Taipai we both took 2 Dramamine and went to sleep on the plane, luckily it was pretty empty so we had three seats to ourself. We landed in Bangkok at 1 am there time about 10 am LA time. We went through customs and went to look for how to get to the hotel I had booked. Since there is a new airport in Bangkok I wasn't sure where to book, I guess I was wrong and my hotel was off somewhere weird, our taxi driver didn't even know were it was. Since I hadn't given them info we just asked him to take us somewhere good and cheap. He was very amused when Anja said something like "cheap, one bed". So here we are at "Nice Palace72/54 Soi Inthamara 1/1 sutthisan rd, Bangkok. We got so sleep and are going to head out to look around Bangkok.

Holes

2006-12-15T12:56:00.000-08:00

I got three holes poked in me tonight. Rabies, Tetnus, and Hepititus A. I got them done at Passport Health in Beverly Hills. Anja went on Wednesday to the UCLA Student Medical Center. It is difficult to belay after the tetnus shot but no need not to climb!

Tickets

2006-11-16T12:59:00.000-08:00

We got our tickets! They cost $850 each, January 6, 2007 to February 4, 2007. We fly to Bangkok on China Air.

Need more books

2006-11-03T12:54:00.000-08:00

So I don't think the King climbers guide will be enough for us. We need more books. We got a lonely planet book, the climbing Thailand guide from the Mountaineers, and a Chaing Mai

We want to go to Thailand

2006-06-20T10:31:00.000-07:00

We want to go to Thailand and climb on the beaches! I called Bill and asked to borrow his guidebook because he and Leslie went last year. Bill brought down the Red King's Climber guideguide for Roger's graduation and Roger left it on his poarch.